How to keep a dog cool in summer is mostly about preventing heatstroke, which is among the most common hot-weather emergencies veterinarians see. Dogs do not sweat the way humans do; they cool primarily through panting, which becomes less effective as humidity rises. The temperature does not have to be extreme. Eighty degrees with humidity, exertion, or restricted shade can produce a medical emergency.

Some dogs are at substantially higher risk: brachycephalic breeds like Bulldogs, Pugs, Boston Terriers, and French Bulldogs, plus elderly dogs, overweight dogs, and dogs with heart or respiratory disease1. These groups need stricter precautions and a faster response to warning signs.

This guide covers prevention, the warning signs of heat stress, and what to do if your dog overheats. My Jack Russell/Chihuahua mix lives in Arizona, and during the worst weeks, I keep walks to dawn and after sunset, the water bowl filled with ice, and the AC running. Specific guidance follows AVMA Heat Safety recommendations.

Last updated: May 30 2026 | By Austin Murphy

This article is for informational purposes and is not a substitute for veterinary advice. Heatstroke is a medical emergency requiring immediate veterinary care.

Key Takeaways

  • Dogs cool primarily by panting and have very limited sweat glands; humidity reduces panting efficiency.
  • Brachycephalic, elderly, overweight, and cardiac or respiratory-compromised dogs are at substantially higher risk.
  • NEVER use ice water immersion for an overheated dog; cool (not cold) water sponging is the recommended bridge measure.
  • Heavy panting that does not slow, drooling, lethargy, bright red gums, vomiting, or collapse warrant immediate emergency veterinary care.

How Dogs Actually Cool Themselves

Dogs have sweat glands only in their paw pads, which provide negligible cooling. The primary cooling system is panting: rapid, shallow breathing that moves air over the moist surfaces of the mouth, tongue, and upper respiratory tract, releasing heat through evaporation1.

The system works well in dry heat and breaks down in humid heat. When ambient humidity is high, the evaporation rate drops, and panting becomes progressively less effective. A 75-degree day at 90 percent humidity can be more dangerous than an 85-degree day at 30 percent humidity. Heat index matters more than thermometer reading.

Vasodilation of blood vessels in the ears, face, and belly also plays a role, transferring heat from the body to surfaces where it can be lost to air. This is why offering a dog a cool surface to lie on (tile, a cooling mat) helps more than just turning on a fan.

When all three mechanisms together cannot keep pace with heat input, body temperature rises. A dog’s normal range is about 101 to 102.5°F. Sustained temperatures above 104°F begin to produce organ stress; above 106°F, organ damage starts within minutes1. Heatstroke is a true emergency, and the window for intervention is short.

Dogs at Higher Risk in Hot Weather

Some dogs need stricter precautions than others. The AVMA identifies the following groups as higher-risk for heat-related illness1:

Brachycephalic breeds

Short-nosed breeds (Bulldogs, Pugs, Boston Terriers, French Bulldogs, Boxers, Cavalier King Charles Spaniels, Pekingese, Shih Tzus) have compressed airways that reduce panting efficiency. They overheat faster and recover more slowly than longer-nosed dogs. During hot weather, brachycephalic dogs need indoor activity only during peak hours and emergency-care awareness, even with mild exertion.

Elderly dogs

Older dogs have less cardiovascular reserve, reduced kidney function, and often pre-existing conditions that compromise heat tolerance. The same heat that a 4-year-old dog handles easily can produce serious heat stress in a 12-year-old of the same breed and weight.

Overweight dogs

Excess body fat acts as insulation and increases metabolic heat production. Overweight dogs overheat faster at every activity level. Weight management is itself a hot-weather safety intervention.

Dogs with heart or respiratory disease

Any condition that compromises breathing or circulation reduces cooling capacity. Dogs with collapsing trachea, laryngeal paralysis, congestive heart failure, or chronic bronchitis need strict heat avoidance and prompt veterinary attention to any change in panting pattern.

Puppies and very young dogs

Young puppies regulate body temperature less efficiently than adults1. They can overheat or get chilled more easily. Outdoor exposure during the summer months needs careful supervision.

Newly arrived dogs in hot climates

A dog that grew up in Minnesota and moved to Phoenix needs weeks to acclimate. Acclimatized dogs handle heat measurably better than newcomers. New arrivals should be treated as higher-risk for the first 4 to 6 weeks.

Step 1: Stagger Walks to Morning and Evening

The single highest-impact change is moving walks out of midday heat. From late spring through early fall in most of the US, walks between 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. are unnecessarily risky on hot days.

The morning window

Dawn to 8 a.m. is the safest morning window in most regions. Pavement has cooled overnight, air temperature is at daily low, and humidity is often higher (which I will address below), but the heat index stays manageable.

The evening window

From 7 p.m. onward, depending on local sunset, the heat starts to break. Asphalt and concrete still hold heat from the day, so test pavement before walking (see Step 4). On the hottest days, wait until full dark.

Midday alternatives

For high-energy dogs who need more than two outdoor sessions a day, midday activity moves indoors. Tug, fetch in a hallway, food puzzles, training sessions, and gentle indoor stair climbs all burn energy without heat exposure. My Jack Russell/Chihuahua mix gets her midday exercise on the tile floor with a flirt pole or food-stuffed Kong.

Adjust by humidity, not just temperature.

Check the heat index, not just the thermometer. A 78-degree day at 85 percent humidity is more dangerous than an 88-degree day at 25 percent. Apps like AccuWeather and most weather services show heat index. If the heat index is above 90°F, skip the outdoor walk entirely.

Step 2: Keep Water Available Everywhere

Dehydration is the precondition for most heat-related illnesses. Water access during the summer months should be effectively unlimited and convenient enough that the dog drinks frequently.

Multiple bowls

Put a water bowl in every room the dog spends time in. The convenience drives more drinking than any single “main” bowl. Refill twice a day to keep water cool and fresh.

Ice in the bowl

Add ice cubes to bowls on hot days. Cold water encourages more drinking and adds a small cooling effect when the dog drinks. Most dogs adapt to ice quickly; some are initially startled but learn it is just cold water.

Portable water on walks

Carry water for any walk lasting more than 10 minutes. Collapsible silicone bowls or dog-specific water bottles with built-in dishes work well. Offer water every 10 to 15 minutes during the walk, not just at the end.

Track intake

Notice your dog’s normal daily water consumption. A sudden drop or sustained increase can signal a problem. Most healthy dogs drink roughly 1 ounce of water per pound of body weight per day in moderate weather; intake should rise in hot weather.

Step 3: Use Shade, AC, and Cooling Surfaces

The environment does more cooling work than any single intervention. Set up the home and yard so cooling options are always within reach.

Air conditioning is the gold-standard cooling tool

Indoor AC during the hottest hours is the single most effective hot-weather safety measure. Set the thermostat at 75 to 78°F during dog-occupied hours. Power cost is real, but the cost of one heatstroke emergency vet visit covers months of summer cooling.

Tile and stone floors

Hard floors stay cool because they conduct heat away from the body. Most dogs naturally seek tile during hot weather. Make sure the dog has access to a tiled or stone-floored area, even if it is a bathroom or kitchen.

Cooling mats

Pressure-activated cooling mats (gel-filled, no refrigeration needed) work well for the first hour or two of use. They get warm with continuous body contact and need a break to “recharge.” Pair with a tile floor for an alternate cool spot.

Outdoor shade

If the dog spends time outdoors, deep shade matters more than partial shade. A dog under a tree with shifting light still gets a significant heat load. Solid shade structures or porch overhangs perform better than tree canopies on the hottest days.

Kiddie pools and water play

A shallow kiddie pool with 4 to 6 inches of cool water lets dogs cool their paws and belly without full immersion. Many dogs will lie down in it voluntarily. Empty after use to prevent mosquito breeding.

Frozen treats

A Kong stuffed with wet food and frozen, or ice cubes made with low-sodium broth, gives both cooling and enrichment. Use during the hottest hours when outdoor activity is off the table.

Step 4: Test the Pavement

Asphalt, concrete, and metal surfaces can reach 130 to 150°F on hot summer days while the air temperature reads 85°F. Pad burns are a common summer injury and are entirely preventable.

The seven-second rule

Place the back of your hand on the pavement and hold it for seven seconds. If you cannot keep it there comfortably, the surface is too hot for your dog’s pads. This applies to driveways, sidewalks, parking lots, and even sand on bright days.

Walk on grass when possible.

Grass stays substantially cooler than pavement under the sun. Route walks through residential areas with grass between sidewalk and curb, or through parks. Even a dirt path is cooler than asphalt.

Booties for unavoidable hot surfaces

Dog booties protect pads from hot pavement and rough surfaces. Many dogs need acclimation time before they walk normally in booties; introduce them gradually in cool weather before relying on them in summer.

Pad symptoms to watch for

Limping, licking at paws, dark or red pad coloration, or visible blistering all warrant immediate cooling (move to grass or indoors), inspection, and veterinary consultation if blisters or open areas are present.

Step 5: Watch for Heat Stress Signs

Catching heat stress early is the difference between a quick recovery and an emergency vet visit. Most heatstroke develops over 30 to 90 minutes of progressive worsening.

Early signs (intervene now)

  • Heavy, rapid panting that does not slow with rest
  • Excessive drooling, often stringy or foamy
  • Bright red or dark red gums and tongue
  • Increased thirst or refusing water
  • Reluctance to move, slowing down, or lying down repeatedly during a walk
  • Bright pink or flushed inner ears and belly

Moderate signs (move toward emergency care)

  • Weakness, stumbling, or difficulty standing
  • Vomiting or diarrhea, sometimes with blood
  • Disorientation, confused-looking eyes
  • Body temperature above 104°F, if you can take a rectal reading
  • Panting becomes more frantic instead of slowing

Severe signs (emergency veterinary care immediately)

  • Collapse or inability to stand
  • Seizures
  • Loss of consciousness
  • Body temperature above 106°F
  • Bloody vomit or stool
  • Pale or bluish gums (different from bright red)

What to Do If Your Dog Overheats

If you see early signs, intervene immediately and call your vet on the way to discuss whether emergency care is warranted. When moderate or severe signs appear, head to the emergency vet immediately while cooling en route.

Move to a cooler environment.

Get the dog out of direct sun. Inside an air-conditioned building is best. A shaded area with airflow is the next-best option.

Cool water (not cold, not ice)

AVMA and ASPCA both recommend cool (not cold) water for cooling an overheated dog12. Apply with a hose, wet towels, or sponging, focusing on the belly, paw pads, ears, and armpits where blood vessels are close to the surface. A fan moving air over wet fur accelerates evaporative cooling.

Offer small amounts of water.

Let the dog drink small amounts of cool water as they tolerate it. Do not force water down a disoriented or semi-conscious dog. Continuous large volumes can cause vomiting.

Transport to the vet

Even if the dog seems to recover, a vet evaluation after suspected heatstroke is essential. Heat damage to organs can present hours later. The car AC should be on full blast for the trip.

What NOT to do

  • Do NOT use ice water immersion. Cold water causes blood vessels in the skin to constrict, which traps heat in the body’s core and worsens outcomes1.
  • Do NOT use ice packs directly on the body for the same reason. Cool, wet towels are the right tool.
  • Do NOT cover the dog with wet towels and leave them in place. Air movement is essential; static wet covering blocks evaporation.
  • Do NOT delay vet care to see if the dog recovers. Heatstroke can have delayed organ effects even after apparent recovery.
  • Do NOT give human medications. Aspirin, ibuprofen, or acetaminophen are toxic to dogs and dangerous in the context of heatstroke.

Active vs Preventive: What Cooling Measures Do and Don’t Do

Cooling products and prevention measures reduce heat load on healthy dogs in moderately hot weather. They do not replace veterinary care for an overheated dog, and they have limits with high-risk dogs in extreme conditions.

What prevention achieves: lower daily heat exposure, reduced risk of mild heat stress, better summer comfort, and easier exercise compliance. Beyond that scope: complete safety for brachycephalic breeds in extreme heat is not assured (those dogs sometimes overheat in conditions that seem mild for other dogs), prevention does not substitute for veterinary care when heatstroke develops, and it cannot guarantee against heat illness in dogs with underlying conditions.

For healthy adult dogs of non-brachycephalic breeds, consistent prevention handles summer well. With brachycephalic, elderly, overweight, or medically compromised dogs, prevention is a foundation that pairs with extra vigilance and a low threshold for veterinary consultation.

When to Take Your Dog to Emergency Veterinary Care

Some patterns warrant immediate emergency veterinary care, not a wait-and-see approach:

  • Body temperature above 104°F that does not drop with cooling within 10 to 15 minutes
  • Body temperature above 106°F at any point
  • Collapse, seizures, or loss of consciousness
  • Heavy panting that becomes more frantic instead of slowing after moving to a cool environment
  • Vomiting or diarrhea, especially with blood
  • Pale, bluish, or gray gums (not bright red)
  • Disorientation, confused appearance, or stumbling
  • Any suspected heatstroke in a brachycephalic dog, regardless of how mild the signs seem
  • Apparent recovery after a heat incident in a higher-risk dog (delayed organ effects can occur)
  • Heat exposure plus pre-existing heart, kidney, or liver disease
  • Pad burns with visible blisters or open areas
  • Any heat-related event in a puppy under 6 months

Have your nearest 24-hour emergency vet’s phone number saved in your phone before summer arrives. Many regions have animal poison control hotlines that also handle heat emergencies (ASPCA Animal Poison Control: 888-426-4435; fees may apply).

Frequently Asked Questions

What temperature is too hot to walk a dog?

It depends on humidity, surface temperature, breed, and the individual dog. As a general guideline: above 80°F heat index, shorten walks and stick to grass or shade. Above 90°F heat index, walks should be brief or skipped entirely. Brachycephalic breeds need lower thresholds; their owners often skip outdoor walks above 75°F.

Can I shave my dog to keep them cool?

Generally no. A dog’s coat actually provides insulation against heat as well as cold, and shaving can disrupt the natural cooling system. Brushing out dead undercoat helps airflow without removing the protective top coat. Exceptions exist for matted or special-needs dogs; ask your groomer or vet.

Are cooling vests effective?

Cooling vests work by evaporative cooling, similar to a wet towel. They are most effective in dry heat with airflow and less effective in high humidity. For brachycephalic breeds or older dogs in moderate heat, a cooling vest plus shade and water access can extend safe outdoor time by a meaningful amount.

Can dogs get sunburned?

Yes. Pale-coated dogs, hairless breeds, and dogs with thin fur on the belly or ears can get sunburned. Use dog-safe sunscreen (never use human zinc-oxide sunscreens) on exposed areas. Or limit sun exposure during peak hours.

Is it safe to leave a dog in the car with the AC running?

Never. AC can fail, engines can stall, and even brief outages produce rapid temperature rise inside vehicles. Vehicle interiors heat up dramatically even on mild days. Leave the dog at home in summer, period.

Do dogs sweat through their paws?

Dogs have a small number of sweat glands in their paw pads, but the contribution to overall cooling is minimal. Panting and behavioral cooling (seeking shade, lying on cool surfaces) are the dominant mechanisms.

What should I do during a power outage in the summer heat?

Get to a cool location immediately. Public libraries, friends with AC, hotels, or cooling centers all work. Do not wait to see if the power comes back. Several hours without AC during extreme heat can produce serious heat stress, especially for high-risk dogs.

Are some dogs naturally heat-tolerant?

Yes. Breeds developed in hot climates (Basenji, Pharaoh Hound, Rhodesian Ridgeback, many sighthound varieties) tend to handle heat better than breeds developed for cold work (Husky, Bernese Mountain Dog, Saint Bernard, Newfoundland). Individual variation within breeds is substantial; do not assume any dog is heat-safe without observing them in your specific climate.

Sources

  1. American Veterinary Medical Association. Heat Safety for Pets. AVMA Pet Owner Resources. View source
  2. American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. Hot Weather Safety Tips. ASPCA. View source